Our List of Challenges Includes includes RV water pressure


Hello Of us! This month, we’ll speak about RV water stress, mildew, screeching inverters, nitrogen and bathroom tanks. Keep in mind, you’ll be able to submit your RVing inquiries to [email protected]. Joyful Trails!

Hello Mark,
Our Carriage Cameo fifth-wheel is saved outdoors in an RV storage space for the winter. We exit to test on it about each 7 to 10 days. We retailer it with all three ceiling vents open and cupboard doorways open. Yesterday once we entered it, we observed a definite musty odor for the primary time, very similar to many home basements have. We did discover what gave the impression to be darkish micro organism or mildew cultures within the RV antifreeze left within the stool throughout winterizing. I cleaned that every one out and rinsed the stool with Clorox. Are there different measures we might or ought to take?
Thanks,
John

Hello John,
Mildew and mildew want two issues to thrive: moisture and a supply of natural diet. Mildew and mildew like to develop on dusty surfaces, so a very good cleansing of all uncovered surfaces to take away mud and lint will assist lots. Airborne moisture can normally be managed in drier climates by offering air flow, however in humid areas, solely a dehumidifier of some type will work. You want to preserve the inside humidity beneath 60 p.c always. Putting in an indoor thermometer/hygrometer with a reminiscence operate could be a large assist, as it is going to will let you monitor the precise peak humidity over time. You also needs to test the rig very fastidiously for water leaks. A tiny leak on a roof or sidewall will permit water into the wooden framing and insulation within the RV and create an ideal local weather for mildew. Maintain it clear and dry, and also you gained’t have any mildew issues.

Showerhead spraying

Picture: Tookapic/Pixabay

Mark,
I’ve had a number of motorhomes, and water stress is all the time an issue! When having a shower, the pump all the time cycles on and off. I’ve up to date to a variable-speed pump with the next quantity (4.0 GPM) with no success. The subsequent factor I’m going to attempt is so as to add an accumulator on the discharge of the pump. Any good concepts?
Mike

Hello Mike,
The pump is biking as a result of the water stream is just too low to maintain up with the pump’s output. A bigger pump or an accumulator tank gained’t tackle the precise drawback, which is a restriction of stream by means of your bathe plumbing. Examine the showerhead and hose for any overseas materials that could be partially plugging them. Attempt eradicating the showerhead from the hose, then run the bathe on the pump and see if it flows correctly. If the pump nonetheless cycles, it might be an issue within the valves or the piping resulting in the bathe. Typically a pipe will get crimped or bent throughout manufacturing, inflicting a restriction. If eradicating the showerhead fixes the stream points, it might want cleansing or alternative.

On normal plastic RV bathe heads, you should use a small drill bit to enlarge the spray holes. This can permit the top to stream extra water. As soon as every little thing is correctly arrange, the bathe ought to stream sufficient water to maintain the pump from biking on and off.

Mark,
I purchased a used motorhome and found that the 300-watt dc to ac inverter would begin to screech after lower than a minute after I activate the TV and instantly if every other gentle within the motorhome is on. To treatment this, I did two issues.

Electrical currents shooting across the sky.

Picture: Mikegi/Pixabay

Because the batteries had been about 8 years previous, I changed them (two 6-volt deep cycle golf cart batteries), then I changed the previous 19-inch analog TV with a 19-inch digital LCD. Lo and behold, after spending about $500 on what I believed was improper, the inverter nonetheless screeched after 2 or 3 minutes of TV. Pondering there have to be one thing improper with the 300-watt inverter, I purchased one rated at 200 watts fixed and 400 watts surge. I plugged it in and located that it’ll run the TV by itself with out screeching, however as I began to show the lights on contained in the camper, I solely needed to flip 4 on earlier than it, too, began screeching.

What’s occurring? I assume the screeching begins when the voltage falls beneath 10 volts, because the directions say, however the TV works high-quality, and all of the lights are good and shiny regardless that the inverter is screeching at me. Naturally, I don’t need an inverter that’s going to screech each time we use somewhat energy; however nonetheless, I’d prefer to have an inverter that offers me warnings or shuts off with any surge. Would a extra highly effective inverter (600 or 1000 watts) be any completely different? Any solutions you may give me could be deeply appreciated.
Thanks,
Bob

Hello Bob,
You’re proper to suspect that it’s a low-voltage situation that’s inflicting the inverter to enter an alarm state. Most 12-volt RV wiring makes use of pretty small gauge wire, particularly for lighting circuits. You didn’t say the place you had been plugging the inverter in, however if you’re utilizing one of many put in 12-volt retailers within the rig, they’re typically tied into one of many lighting circuits. Whenever you add the massive load of the inverter to a kind of circuits, the wiring isn’t sufficient to produce the wanted present, inflicting a big voltage drop.

The inverter senses a low-voltage situation and sounds the alarm. Add a few lights to the load, and issues simply worsen! One of the simplest ways to handle that is to run a separate 12-volt circuit devoted to the inverter straight from the RV’s 12-volt fuse panel or straight from the home batteries themselves. Use a very good dimension wire and remember to embrace an inline fuse in the event you run the circuit straight from the battery. That 400W inverter can theoretically draw a most of about 40A briefly in surge mode and can in all probability draw 20A or much less when operating because it’s rated for a most 200W steady load.

With this in thoughts, I’d recommend that you just use no less than 10-gauge stranded wire to your circuit. An eight-gauge wire could be higher if the size exceeds 15 ft. The bigger the wire, the much less voltage loss! I might use a 20A fuse or circuit breaker to guard the wire as a result of it’s unlikely that you just’ll really draw the utmost present along with your setup, however if in case you have issues with that fuse blowing as a consequence of excessive surge present on startup, you possibly can safely go to a 25A or 30A fuse. You possibly can set up a 12-volt cigarette lighter receptacle to plug the inverter into, however in the event you intend to all the time use the inverter within the RV, you’ll be higher off wiring it straight with out the plug. If any of this sounds prefer it’s past your capabilities, please have a certified RV tech or electrician do the wiring.

Hello Mark,
Are you able to inform me the place I can discover tire pressures for nitrogen-filled tires?

An RV showing its tires.

Getty Pictures

All air stress is given at chilly stress, which expands to a sizzling operating stress and, since nitrogen doesn’t develop, I must know what operating stress ought to be.
Cheers,
Glen

Hello Glen,
There’s solely a small distinction within the thermal coefficient of growth between air and nitrogen. Air is, in spite of everything, 78% Nitrogen. When you inflate your tires with nitrogen to the right inflation stress specified for air, they are going to be high-quality. The first benefit advocates declare for pure nitrogen is that it’s a bigger molecule, and that slows down the conventional lack of stress by means of the permeable rubber of the tire.

Crucial factor you are able to do to your tires is to maintain them on the correct inflation stress always for one of the best gasoline financial system and tread life. Nitrogen is meant to make this simpler by not leaking down as quick, however there is no such thing as a scientific proof {that a} tire correctly inflated with nitrogen lasts any longer or supplies any higher fuel mileage than one that’s correctly inflated with air.

Mark,
Now we have a selected drawback that requires using two-ply bathroom paper and have discovered that we have to do additional hose flushes from the bathroom bowl to utterly empty the collected particles in our black water tank (we additionally steadily empty scraped meals and dishwater into the black water tank to avoid wasting house within the grey water tank, which fills up extra shortly). Have you ever any ideas as to a product we will flush the black tank with to disintegrate the stable waste supplies? Every other ideas? We’re new at RVing and have a 36-foot motorcoach.
Thanks,
Outdated Roadie!

Hello Outdated Roadie,
It sounds to me like you might be creating the issue by utilizing your bathroom as a type of dispose-all. A black water tank works finest if it’s a miniature septic tank, the place cardio and anaerobic micro organism can work to interrupt down solids. Most organic tank remedies are designed to advertise bacterial exercise and when your tank is working nicely, will probably be very efficient at liquefying wastes. Nevertheless, there’s a restrict to how a lot stable materials the system can deal with. Whenever you add meals scraps, you might be including solids to the tank which might be very laborious to digest. You’re much better off disposing of meals scraps, paper merchandise and grease within the rubbish and preserve them out of your tank. It’s best to by no means put that type of stuff into your grey water tank, both. I might additionally keep away from placing important quantities of soapy water into the black tank as nicely, as cleaning soap is inherently anti-bacterial and can cut back or eradicate the helpful micro organism in your tank. For more information on black water tank dos and don’ts, take a look at my Water, Water, In every single place article at www.marxrv.com/tech.htm.







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